What are Chelators?
Chelators, also known as sequestrants, are complex molecules that trap the heavy metal that is often found in water. In other words, chelators soften water. Chelant is a chelating agent capable of "embracing" metal ions (calcium, magnesium, iron, copper...) forming soluble complexes that are then removed during rinsing. This process is called chelation. In hair care, it plays a key role in improving cleansing, foaming and hair finish when washing with hard water.
What is a chelating agent used for in hair cosmetics?
Chelating agents in hair products are key to counteracting the effects of hard water. They help shampoo and conditioner work consistently in all types of water, prevent mineral build-up, and help to prevent the build-up of minerals in the hair.They prevent minerals from building up on the cuticle, enhance the hair's natural shine, improve combability and reduce the rough or dull feel..
A clear example is Bare Wash from GOA Organicsa chelating shampoo formulated to remove heavy metals that accumulate in the hair fiber. Its detoxifying action protects the cuticle, maintains hydration and restores shine.It is especially useful if you live in areas with hard water or are frequently exposed to chlorine and salt.
Water
Water contains mineral compounds, specifically magnesium and calcium salts. There are two types of water, depending on the concentration of these compounds.
Hard water: contains a high concentration of metals.
Soft water: contains very few metals. Quick hint: if you live in coastal areas or cities with lime, you probably live with hard water. At home, you may also notice lime scale in faucets, shower screens or kettles.
Hard water
We can easily identify if we are washing our hair with hard water. In these cases, the shampoo and/or soap lather less, leaving the hair heavier, duller and brittle.
This is because metals are deposited in the cuticles, opening them and making them look dull. This accumulation of metals can also be responsible for itchy scalp and drier skin.
Typical hair symptoms of hard water
- Poor lather and a "never-finished rinse" feeling.
- Hair with mineral build-up: rough to the touch, no movement and frizz reactive to humidity.
- Colorations that turn or fade early (especially blondes that yellow or turn green after swimming pool).
- Heat treatments that "show less" because the cuticle is not well sealed by the mineral deposit.
💡 Direct benefit of chelators: they prevent these minerals from attaching to the cuticle and scalp, improve combability, shine and the feeling of real cleanliness after washing.
A clear example of this is Bare Wash, the chelating shampoo from GOA Organics. Formulated to act as a hair detox, it helps remove metals accumulated from hard water, pool chlorine or even sea salt. Regular use not only deep cleanses, but keeps the cuticle compact, prevents dryness and prolongs the results of professional treatments.
How to identify them?
You will find them in the list of ingredients with Inci nomenclature:
DISODIUM EDTA
TRISODIUM EDTA
TETRASODIUM EDTA
Other common chelators (and more "green") in INCI:
- Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate (GLDA).
- Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate (EDDS).
- Sodium Phytate (phytate) and Phytic Acid (rice/seed derivatives).
- Citric Acid (citric acid; mild chelator that also adjusts pH).
How chelators "work" (express summary):
1) They bind to metal ion (Ca²⁺, Mg²⁺, Fe³⁺...).
2) They form a soluble complex that is not deposited on the fiber.
3) They facilitate drag-out in rinsing and leave the cuticle more compact.
Conclusion
In conclusion, the chelators used in cosmetics have the function of trapping heavy metals, cleaning the accumulations that form in the hair. Thanks to them we get softer, shinier and healthier hair.
Chelating agents are not toxic, they are synthetic. Remember that currently we will NOT find any product on the market that contains toxic ingredients. Furthermore, the EU has a very clear law regarding toxic substances and the percentage of each ingredient allowed in the different ingredients in the formulations.
If you live with hard water, do sports in swimming pool or you usually go to the sea, integrating a shampoo with chelating agents in your routine will be key to maintain the health of your hair. At GOA Organics we rely on formulas like Bare Wash to help prolong the results of professional treatments and keep hair free of buildup, soft and luminous day after day.
